I have decided to start a new series called ‘HOW S.L. DOES’ where I talk about different makeup trends like colour correction.
To begin the series I decided to break down colour correction before I start to review different colour correction products. In this post I will talk about: why we colour correct, what colours to pick, and what formula to choose.
WHY WE COLOUR CORRECT
To start off colour correction makeup is based off the colour wheel (pictured above). The idea is that if you want to neutralize a certain colour you use the colour on the opposite side to do so. For example if you have purple tones (usually found in dark circles) you will apply a peach tone to neutralize. Neutralizing the tone will allow you to use less product (ie. concealer) to cover up any imperfections.
WHAT COLOURS TO PICK
Dark circles/spots usually have a purple-blue tone so according to the colour wheel peach/pink is the best for neutralizing the colour. Following the chart I made above it basically means that:
Light skin tone = pink colour corrector
Medium skin tone = peach colour corrector
Dark skin tone = orange colour correct
However, the chart above is a general guideline as everyone’s skin is different – therefore if you find that you have light skin and your under eye area comes off PURPLE opt for a PEACH colour corrector and so on. The most important thing to do is to evaluated your own under eye area and determine what tone it is. A good trick I like to use for figuring out my skin’s imperfections is taking a picture of your face without makeup (preferably with an actual camera because colour is not as detailed on a phone) and evaluate from there.
Redness is often found in acne spots, on the cheeks, and around the nose. The different types of ‘redness’ are generally split into two categories shown above – intense redness and mild redness. So colour correction would go as follows:
Intense redness (acne spots) = green colour corrector
Mild redness (irritation) = yellow colour corrector
The lighter the redness the lighter green and more yellow tone would be what you need. Therefore the deeper the redness the darker the green tone will need to be.
Dullness or sallowness is the category that is a little more confusing – it mainly refers to unwanted yellow or grey tones in the skin that make the skin appear ‘flat’ or ‘unhealthy’ sometimes even referred to as ‘unlively’. Therefore, the colour correctors will work to brighten the skin allowing it to look luminous and healthier. So following the chart:
Light skin tones = pink – light purple colour correctors
Medium skin tones = purple – blue colour correctors
Above I have only listed Light and Medium as dullness is rarely seen in darker skin tones.
WHAT FORMULA TO CHOOSE
After you pick which colours are best for your individual concerns you now have to pick the formula and consistency of the product. Like other products colour correctors also come in different formulas and it is best to choose the formula that would work best for your concern. I personally go by the list below:
liquid/powder = full face concerns (ex. all over dullness)
cream/gel = sections of the face (ex. redness in the cheeks)
stick/pencil = spot correction (ex. acne spots)
The thinner the formula – the easier it is to spread over the skin and the pigmentation of the colour corrector is lighter allowing to be look more natural. Creams on the other hand have a little more pigmentation but the product is easier to control and maintain in the desired area. Lastly, stick or pencil products are best for spot correction and allow you to concentrate the product on a small area without spreading it all over the place.
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